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How
can
I tell if my pool is leaking?
How
do
I determine how many gallons of water is in my pool?
How
long should my pool filter run each day?
When
should I run my pool filter?
How
often does my pool filter need to be cleaned?
How
do I
select a filter, and what are the pros and cons?
What
is
cyanuric acid?
Why
does
my pool/spa need to be chlorinated?
Do
you
service salt pools?
Is a
salt chlorinated system better than the traditional hand chlorinated
system?
How
often should I change the water in my pool?
What
is
TDS?
Should
I change my own pool water?
How
long does it take to heat my pool?
Is
it
safe to swim with my pool / spa light on?
How
often do I need an acid wash?
My
hair
turns green when I swim. Is this caused by chlorine?
Is
it
ok for my dog to swim in the pool or drink the pool water?
How
do
I keep ducks out of my pool?
Why
should I use a pool service?
Do
you
add water each week?
If I
have a pool service do I still need an automatic vacuum?
If
I
have a pool service do I still need to empty my baskets?
Is
it
ok to drain my pool for the winter?
When
it
rains will the water cause my pool to flood the yard?
How
long does it take to heat my spa with a gas heater?
How
long does it take to heat my spa with an electric heater?
Why
are
your rates higher then my old “pool guy”?
What
cities do you offer weekly pool cleaning?
Q:
How
can I
tell if my pool is leaking?
A:
Depending on the pools normal evaporation. It is about 2" to 3-1/2" per
week. When the days are warm and the nights cool evaporation is at it's
highest. Using the ordinary plastic bucket you can perform this simple
test to determine if your pool is leaking.
- Bring pool
water to
normal
level. (middle of skimmer)
- Place bucket on
1st
or 2nd
step of pool.
- Fill bucket
with pool
water
to same level as pool.
- Mark water
level on
inside
of bucket.
- Shut off pump
and
mark pool
water level on outside of bucket.
- Resume normal
pump
operation.
- After 24 to 48
hours,
compare the 2 water levels.
- If the pool
water
(outside mark) goes down more than inside water level, there is
probably a leak.
- In case of
rain
repeat
the test. (Be sure if your pool is equipped with an auto fill to shut
off water supply.)
- Test is
invalid
after
48 hours.
Q: How do I determine how
many
gallons of
water is in my pool?
A:
First, determine the average depth of your pool by taking the depth of
the deepest end of your pool and adding the depth of the shallowest end
(in feet). Divide this number by 2. This number is the average depth.
Continue below based on the shape of your pool.
*Square or Rectangular*
Total Gallons = length x width x average depth x 7.5 (in feet)
*Circular*
Total Gallons = diameter x diameter x average depth x 5.9 (in feet)
*Oval*
Total Gallons = Long Diameter (in feet) x Short Diameter (in feet) x
Average Depth x 5.9
Q: How long should my
filter
run each
day?
A:
Your pool filter is the most important component in keeping your
swimming pool clean. Ideally, a filter should run all the time for
maximum circulation and debris removal. A minimum of 8 hours a day in
summer and 4 to 6 hours per day in the winter is highly recommended.
Q: When should I run
my pool
filter?
A:
To retard chlorine evaporation, maximize water clarity and prevent
algae your pool filter should run during the hottest part of the day.
Q: How often does my
pool
filter
need to
be
cleaned?
A:
This is dependent upon several factors. (the size of your pool, size of
your pool filter, the type of pool filter you have, bather and
contaminant loads most manufactures recommend a minimum of twice a year
complete filter tear down and cleaning
.
Q. How do I select a filter,
and
what
are
the pros and cons?
A.
- There are several types of filters and each is outlined below with a
short description. For more information on what might be right for your
application please give us a call. Bacteria and algae particle size are
measured in microns. The smaller the micron the finer it is to detect
with the human eye.
- SAND - This is
the
least
common filter and it's very easy to use, however frequent backwashing,
which is necessary to clean the sand in the filter, uses a lot of
chlorinated water, which essentially wastes the chlorine and water.
(SAND FILTERS CAN PICK UP 50 TO 100 MICRONS, THE LEAST EFFICIENT)
- D.E. -
(Diatomaceous
Earth)
This is the only filter we recommend and
provides the best water quality, however, it is the most difficult
filter to use and requires a lot of attention. (D.E. FILTERS CAN FILTER
UP TO 2 MICRONS, THE MOST EFFICIENT)
- CARTRIDGE -
This is the most user-friendly filter and provides water clarity
similar to that of a D.E. filter, however the replacement cartridges
for the filter are expensive, wear out, and can tear easily. (CARTRIDGE
FILTERS CAN FILTER UP TO 30-50 MICRONS, DECENT BUT MOST ALGAE WILL PASS
THROUGH A CARTRIDGE FILTER)
Q: What is cyanuric
acid?
A:
Cyanuric acid, also referred to as "conditioner" or "stabilizer" is
added to swimming pools and spas to slow down the decomposition of
chlorine from the sun's ultraviolet rays (UV). With the
correct
cyanuric acid levels, it can save up to 80% of normal chlorine
consumption during peak sunny months. The level should not
exceed 100
PPM. Ideal range is 50-80 PPM.
Q: Why does my
pool/spa need
to be
chlorinated?
A:Pools
should be disinfected continuously by a chemical which imparts a
residual effect. Chlorine is a type of "disinfectant", also
called a
"sanitizer". Disinfects or sanitizers destroy living
microorganisms
and bacteria, preventing the transmission of disease. There
are
several types of disinfectants, such as chlorine, bromine, salt
chlorination, ozone, and UV light. Pools need a disinfectant
with a
measurable residual.
Q: Do you service salt
pools?
A:
Yes we do. More and more of our customers are switching to
salt chlorination. Interested in switching? Give us
a call!
Q: Is
a salt chlorinated system better then the traditional hand chlorinated
system?
A: Salt
chlorinators do have many advantages over the traditional hand
chlorinated system.
The
salt chlorinator sanitizes pool water by converting the salt in the
water to a chlorine gas, sanitizing your water and then changing back
to salt. Adding fresh water to the pool does cause the salt
levels to
drop therefore salt pools do require salt to be added, usually two to
three times per year.
Also,
the salt in the water works as a natural water softener, creating a
much more comfortable environment to swim in comparison to the
harshness of a hand-chlorinated pool.
And finally,
safety.
When it comes to
pools, the most important thing is that your family is kept safe from
bacteria and algae. Chlorine does not have a long life and
therefore
even if you test the water for chlorine prior to swimming and find the
level is correct, after an hour or so that chlorine could have
completely dissipated, leaving the water open for dangerous bacteria.
Because a salt chlorinator will continue to sanitize your
pool while
the pool is in use, the chlorine in the water is constantly being
replaced with "new chlorine", keeping the water sanitized at all times
and keeping your family safe.
Salt cells do
require
manual
periodic
cleaning and maintenance. Also your swimming pool's pH will
tent to
run very high and require large doses of muriatic acid.
Q: How often should I
change the
water
in
my pool?
A:When
your TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) are in excess of 2,000 PPM.
Approximately every 3 to 5 years.
Q: What is TDS?
A:
The sum total of all the dissolved material in the water is called
"total dissolved solids" or TDS. Sources of TDS in the water
include
disinfectants, balance chemicals, calcium hardness, source water,
bather waste, algaecides, total alkalinity, wind blown dust and dirt,
phosphates, nitrates, and sulfates.
TDS buildup is
inevitable. Every time you add chemicals to the water, the
TDS
increases. Even adding makeup water to the pool increases
TDS. When
water evaporates, only the pure water leaves the pool and all material
that was dissolved in the water remains behind. This builds
up over
time, increasing the TDS.
The ideal range
of TDS is from 1000 to 2000 PPM, and the maximum level is 2500 PPM to
3000 PPM. There is no way to reduce TDS chemically.
You must drain or
partially drain the pool and replace with fresh water.
Q: Should I change my
own
water?
A: Only
if you have a submersible pump and are familiar with adding start up
chemicals (Cyanuric Acid, Stain Out, Chlorine, Acid).
Draining a pool
using the pool filtering pump usually will not work once the water
level drops below the skimmer and is a lot of strain on your filter
grids. We do offer a draining service with balancing of
chemicals once
refilled.
Q: How often do I
need an
acid
wash?
A:
Typically every 5 to 7 years a pool should be drained and acid washed
to remove discoloring caused by chemicals. An acid wash is,
put
simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster, exposing fresh
plaster beneath.
An acid wash will
generally
remove
superficial stains, fine scale deposits, and various colored deposits
from the plaster. The process strips off (dissolves) a very
thin layer
of plaster, and will therefore generally restore 75 to 85% of the
plaster's brightness. An acid wash will not remove heavy
deposits or
stains that have penetrated through many layers of plaster.
As a rule, acid
washing a
pool
should be done only by a licensed professional.
Q: My hair turns
green when
I
swim, is
this caused by the chlorine?
A: No.
Exposure to metals dissolved in the water, particularly
copper, iron,
and manganese causes your hair to turn green. When metals
attach to
the hair shaft and are oxidized by the chlorine, they can leave behind
a green residue. To remove the metals from your hair use a
swimmer's
shampoo which contains the chelating chemical ethylenediamine
tetra-acetic acid (EDTA).
Q: Is it ok for my
dog to
swim in
the
pool, or drink the pool water?
A:
Dogs love to swim in the swimming pools. However, chlorinated
water is
not good for dogs. The chlorine can remove the natural oils
from the
dog's body and cause dry, itchy skin. Also, too high of a
sanitizer
level can irritate the dog's esophagus if they drink the pool water.
Q: How do I keep
ducks out
of my
pool?
A:
Ducks will avoid your pool if the majority of the water is somehow
obscured or if the pool seems to be in use.
Try these first:
Fill
up as much of the open water surface as possible when the pool is not
in use. Throw two large multicolored beach balls in the pool.
Add two
or more large alligator floats. A few safety pool ropes
stretched
tightly across the pool will also give the illusion the water is full,
and the ducks will should find another place to stay.
Q: Is it safe to swim
with
my
pool/ spa
light on?
A:
We do not recommend swimming with your pool lights on unless you have a
GFI (GFCI- Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) and check it monthly by
pressing the "test" then reset button. If the button does not depress
when pushing "test" then "reset" your GFI might be bad and is not safe
to swim.
Q: Why should I use a
pool
service?
A:
CONVENIENCE: Many
of us simply can not afford the time it takes to maintain a pool on a
regular schedule. We do the work and take the time to inspect the pool
and the equipment for proper operation. If small parts are needed, they
are obtained and installed on the next service date, saving you an
inconvenient trip to the pool store. No need to lug home gallons of
acid and chlorine and find a place to store them safely when not in
use.
COMPETENCE: We
are experts,
because we maintain pools for a living. Knowing what it takes to obtain
the proper water chemistry is what we do daily. We know what to do if
we spot an algae bloom. As with most things, consistency is critically
important and that is why we come on the same day every week. We notice
changes in the water balance and adjust accordingly.
COST EFFECTIVE:
It will cost you a little more for us to maintain your pool, but
probably not that much. You will probably spend an average of $30.00 to
$40.00 per month for the necessary chemicals, including chlorine
tablets, muriatic acid, shock treatments and chemical test kits. For
only a few dollars a week more, we will come to your house and do it
all for you.
WHAT IS YOUR
TIME
WORTH?:
Lets do the math, If you spend an estimated 1 hour per week x 4 weeks
per month cleaning your own pool and lets say you earn $20 per hour at
your job $20 x4= $80 plus you are spending $30 to $40 per month on
chemicals (and time to pick up chemicals). It's costing you $120 per
month at best to clean your own pool.
Q: Do you add water each
week?
A: Generally
no.
- It is an
insurance
liability
for us to add water.
- When water is
being
added
it makes it difficult to see the bottom of the pool while we are
vacuuming.
- Time. Our pool
technicians
are at your home for only 30 minutes. In 30
minutes at 7 gpm (gallons per minute) we would only be able add about
an inch of water or 210 gallons, not a significant difference.
- If the pool
service
technician forgets to shut the water off you're
probably not going to be happy with us! We want happy customers
Q: If I have a pool
service
do I
still
need an automatic vacuum?
A:
No you do not need one. But we do recommend it! An automatic vacuum can
assist in keeping you pool cleaned in between visits. After all, out of
10,080 minutes in a week we are only at your home for 30 of those.
Q: If I have a pool
service
do I
still
need to empty my baskets?
A:
Yes! We highly recommend assisting us in emptying your skimmer and pump
baskets especially during the fall/ windy season. If your baskets are
overflowing the leaves will impair the water circulation and your pump
will run dry.
Q: When it rains will the water cause my
pool to flood the yard?
A:
No more than if you have only grass or cement in your back yard. Most
backyards are equipped with a drainage system so there is nothing to
worry about. Once the pool water level crests it is the same as having
a cement yard. If you are still concerned you can backwash your filter
for a few minutes to get the desired water level. Be sure to add fresh
D.E. as soon as you are done or the filter will need to be cleaned
again.
Q: How long does
it take
to heat my pool?
A:
This would depend to a great degree (pardon the pun) on the size of the
pool and the BTU rating of the heater. However, I have an 18' X 36'
pool (about 25,000 Imperial gallons) and my gas heater raises the
temperature at a rate of about 1/2 degree per hour.
Q: How long does
it take
to heat my spa with a gas heater?
A: An
average sized spa 580 gallons with a gas pool heater should take
approximately 45 minutes to get from 55* to 104* If it is taking
substantially longer your heater is too small or it needs service.
Q: How long does
it take
to heat my spa with an electric heater?
A:
If you have an electric heater then you have a portable spa/ hot tub
and it must be covered when heating it. If you do not have a cover, get
one right away. Portable spas are made to be heated and stay heated.
Electric heat elements heat water very slowly at approximately 4 to 5
degrees per hour. It takes approximately 6 to 8 hours typically to get
to 104* which is why it must stay covered to retain the heat.
Q: Why are your
rates
higher then my old “pool guy”?
A: Quite
simply because we are professionals. We may not be the cheapest service
out there, but we are the best!! Your “old pool
guy” is your old pool guy for a reason. We always show up, we
always do a great job, we always care about your pool, and we always
make your pool look better then it ever has before. Besides, how much
are you really saving if your other service doesn't show up and algae
starts growing in your pool. Now you are stuck paying someone else to
come in and clean up the mess. Or because he walks in and out of your
yard in 2 minutes, or his chemical imbalance puts holes in your skimmer
and pool heater and causes copper sulfate staining in your new plaster
and he never notices a leak in your equipment or a motor that is
running too high or running dry. As a result he ends up costing you
hundreds and hundreds of dollars in repairs. As the saying goes
“The cheap comes out expensive in the end.”
Q: What cities do
you
offer
weekly pool cleaning?
A:
We offer weekly pool cleaning maintenance service in the following
cities only: Temecula Murrieta Menifee French Valley Winchester Wildomar
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